Happy Aloha Friday! In case you haven’t heard, north shore has been BOMBING. And seeing twenty to thirty to forty foot waves is always a crazy experience. Each and every time.
Unfortunately, on the super-huge days I forgot my camera! However, I did manage to capture one of the smaller (but still big) days at the beginning of the swell.
The waves might look small, but keep in mind that the surfers are only 6 foot tall – so if the wave is double overhead, that’s a pretty deadly size.
Even on these days, only the experienced get to brave north shore’s razor sharp reef and heavy-lipped barrels. On a great day, the ground under the sand even shakes.
Although it’s a little terrifying to watch, I love watching my man paddle out with some of the pros on days like this. I love, love, love spending days at the beach in awe of the brave, slightly suicidal surfers that just shred.